Adventure by Bike in Northern Ontario

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Bikepacking, cycle touring, call it what you will, but a mini cycling adventure along the quiet roads of northern Ontario's Algoma country will do wonders for the mind and soul. You don't have to go far; you just have to go.

It's snowing, hmmm, well, it is late October in northern Ontario, there are dark skies overhead, and the temperature is hovering around zero Celsius, unexpected but possible. All would be of no concern except that on this October morning, downtown Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, we are at the starting point of a full day aboard our bikes along an assortment of Algoma's country roads, destination St. Joseph Island and back tomorrow.

The snow remains the main focus of conversation as we partake in curbside coffee and breakfast, only to discover as we roll into our day that the snow is not snow at all but flakes of styrofoam from a construction site down the block. Somewhat relieved, we proceed east along the Sault Ste. Marie waterfront, park paths and cycling lanes and into the countryside beyond.

While the threat of snow fades to laughter, the brooding sky above does not. Within an hour of departure, we find ourselves in a losing battle against a wall of rain. As quickly as it arrives and just long enough to leave us drenched, it is over. The sun is back, the fall colours of the surrounding landscape, now at their brilliant best saturated with moisture, raise our spirits. The wet pavement glistening in the sun like a grey version of the yellow brick road compels us forward.

What's the plan, you ask, simple really, a mini 160 km or so overnight adventure by bike from Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario to St. Joseph Island.

If not familiar with the Waterfront Trail, its 3600 kilometres signed route follows the coastline of the great lakes from the shore of Lake Superior to the Quebec border, and as it happens, following the signs will get us where we want to go. It is also the most bike-friendly and the shortest distance at around 70 km from here to there. However, we are looking for a little extra saddle time and divert into the Algoma countryside.

I must say, when it comes to getting from point A to B, there are ways aplenty, but few, if any, can match the perfect balance of speed and experience provided by the bicycle. Of course, all adventures are better in good company. It just so happens, as a member of local bike touring outfit Red Pines Tours, my trip companion knows the area like the back of his hand, so for me, it's follow the leader and enjoy.

Fake snow, real rain, pavement and gravel, our day unfolds as an adventure should. The Algoma country roads are virtually traffic-free, making for perfect cycling. The rolling terrain and fall colours provide physical challenge, and visual rewards and the kilometres are filled with conversation, laughter, photo stops and food breaks.

Making good time, we cross the bridge onto the island by midafternoon and pull up a chair at the Black Bear Cafe. Located at the first intersection on St. Joseph Island, this place is well known for serving some good eats. There is some talk of extending our ride with daylight still on our side, but that idea is quickly squashed by hot coffee and some fantastic pizza. Bellies full, we roll the final ten kilometres to our night's destination.

Welcome to St. Joseph Island, the second largest island on Lake Huron. With its low-traffic roads and beautiful scenery, this is a popular northern Ontario cycling destination in its own right. Given the option, an extra day spent exploring the island is highly recommended. Accommodation choices abound, from camping to cottage or, as in our case, the Stonefield B&B.

Here we are, among trees, meadows, and gardens on an 80-acre property, the Stonefield B&B. Owners' Peggy and Monte set out to replicate the bed and breakfast experience they enjoyed on a trip to Ireland. I say they succeeded, from the building's Irish farmhouse style to the three tastefully decorated guest rooms, a library nook to relax in, and on the lower level, a gorgeous Irish-style pub, complete with bar and stage.

We spend the evening in the pub doing what people do in a pub; cheers. In the morning, the pub is the setting showcasing Monte's passion for cooking. We enjoy a fantastic breakfast, well worthy of today's planned physical demands.

All packed up and ready to go, we start day two with a plan to explore the northern end of the island before heading back to the Soo. The morning sun is shining, but the air is brisk and chilly as dark grey skies in the distance provide a reason for concern, one hour into our day, yep, rain and lots of it.

Back at the Black Bear Cafe, puddles form under our chairs as we drown our sorrows in cappuccinos and await a chance to make a run for it. The sky clears, and the rain stops; we order a couple of breakfast wraps to go, stuff them in our bags for later and push off onto the still wet road, no time to dilly-dally now. Luckily our way home is well-marked and easy to follow, courtesy of the Waterfront Trail.

The ride back to Sault Ste. Marie is remarkably uneventfully enjoyable. The rain stays away, and we seem to have the country roads all to ourselves, and oh yeah, those breakfast wraps purchased earlier, delicious.

Back in town, we do what we always do at the end of an adventure. Beer and food at Outspoken Brewing as we recount the good times and laugh at the bad. It's incredible how even a mini-adventure can satisfy the mind and soul, and this Sault Ste Marie to St. Joseph Island overnighter proves that you don't have to go big; you just have to go.